Thursday, January 30, 2014

Knit Wiksten Tank Dress

fabric - off white, navy stripe merino knit, the fabric store (brisbane)
This is my summer uniform. Hello stripes! I love the Wiksten tank dress & because the pattern is so simple & has no dart I knew a knit fabric would make it even more perfect. I just used a smaller size to account for the fabric stretch. Easy! I love the shape of the hem, and the slight difference in front & back lengths. 
This fabric is so lovely. We have a hot summer here in Queensland & merino wool is renowned for its cool-in-summer & warm-in-winter properties. This fabric doesn't disappoint! I've worn this dress on some our hottest days so far & it's very comfortable, moreso than a woven because you don't need to worry about it crushing. I have a bit left & can't wait to make a 3/4 autumn top out of it (a hemlock tee maybe?).
A few constuction notes
  • needles: ball point needles, and twin ballpoint needle to finish hem, arm holes & neckline. Also ballpoint needles in the serger (not sure is this really necessary, but didn't want to risk this lovely fabric).
  • Used a walking foot.
  • Cut the smallest size (XS) to account for fabric stretch (at least one size smaller than i would cut for a woven). Took out 2cm from CB at neckline, grading to nothing at hem.
  • Serged side seams instead of french seams.
  • Serged hem then foled up 1/4inch & sewed with twin needle.
  • neck & arms finished with self bias (cut on grain, not bias). For the neck I made a feature out of the bias. For the arms I just turned it all in. I used some elastic to stablise the shoulder seams, although I don't think i really needed to. Better to be safe than sorry, right?
I wear it mostly with a belt but even without it's a great little dress.

hem - serged then turned up & sewed with a double needle.

One final (rushed) pic as I head out the door.